France is a fairly hospitable country for gluten-free travelers. On a scale of Italy, where I could eat cheese-less pizzas, vegan tiramisu, and fresh pasta in every city, to Mongolia- all dairy, mutton, and wheat dumplings- France doesn't fall far behind the US. Every grocery store carries gluten-free cookies and pasta. With so many dedicated gluten-free restaurants, you don't need to risk cross-contamination. Here are a few gluten-free (and zero-waste) restaurants / hotels we enjoyed in other French cities. This isn't an exhaustive list, only the ones I've been to. Even if you don't eat gluten-free, these places are worth the trip!
Loire Valley
Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud, Fontevraud-l'Abbaye
A UNESCO world heritage site, Fontevraud composts, avoids excess packaging, and sources ingredients locally. They make gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian meals, served at a private or communal table.
Un Piano dans la Théiere, Orleans
Cute vegan restaurant, tea room, and wine bar with gluten-free / raw dishes and desserts.
L'Orangerie, Cheverny
Beautiful tea room and restaurant with an array of gluten-free plates and desserts, including my first tarte tatin. We went with a friend from the area and he said someone in the kitchen must be gluten-intolerant, because even in a touristy chateau, it's rare to find a place so sensitive to food allergies!
Normandy
Côte Parc Hotel Zero Gluten, Rémalard
Attached to a Clarins spa, in a quiet village just a few hours from Paris, this boutique hotel guarantees gluten-free meals to visitors, including tartes, quiches, and pâtisserie.
Chez Laurette, Honfleur
For a classic establishment (it's been around since the 60s), Chez Laurette is fairly progressive, offering vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free meals and desserts on the bustling terrace.
Domaine de Maspa, Saonnet
Vegetarian and gluten-free friendly organic B&B.
La Ferme aux Chats, Bessin
Historic farm turned B&B near Omaha Beach, serving gluten-free breakfasts. Each suite is named after a cat breed.
Bretagne
Le Bout du Quai, Cancale
I stayed with Bretons and didn't eat out much, but this local favorite has a great gluten-free menu and views on the sea. It's where friends go for special occasions. While the region- home to Altiplano gluten-free biere- is full of gluten-free options, celiacs should be wary of galettes. I've never had good experiences with them.
Rhône-Alpes
The Roster, Annecy-Le-Vieux
Run by BMX bikers, the Roster boasts an ethical supply chain and makes sustainable, delicious vegetarian / gluten-free burgers. I didn't try it, but apparently their cheesecake is awesome.
L'Heure Bio, Annecy
Locals recommend the terrace of this cute organic restaurant, offering vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free meals in a zero-waste friendly environment. They have a fountain for refilling water bottles, put food in your own containers for take-out, and use minimal or compostable packaging. The restaurant also serves ethically and locally sourced meat and fish. I still dream about the gluten-and-lactose-free chocolate fondant. For something fancier, try Impérial Palace, a gastronomic restaurant in Annecy.
La Souleiado, Ardèche
100% sans gluten and lactose, with a stylish hotel and stunning views of the mountains and nature near Ardèche National Park.
Popotte&Co, Lyon
Friendly 100% gluten free coffee shop, restaurant, and wine bar with crepes, galette frangipane, brownies, pancakes, and more.
Le Tigre, Lyon
Gluten free coffee shop serving great breakfasts, detox juices, and sweets with a specialty in artisanal coffees.
Ma Cantine Gourmande, Lyon
Tasty gluten-free food truck dubbed the best food truck overall in Lyon, by all the Lyonnaise (celiac or not) I've ever talked to :)
My Petite Factory, Lyon
Organic gluten-free and lactose free restaurant with awesome vegan bowls and cookies.Giverny
Le Jardin des Plumes, Eure
Constructed in 1912 and abandoned for decades, this gorgeous restored residence opened as a hotel a century later. The gluten-free chouquette, beautiful grounds, and Michelin-starred restaurant are worth turning a visit to Monet's garden into a weekend getaway.
La Capucine, Giverny
Famous botanical café serving gluten-free cassolettes and vegetarian meals. It turns into a jazz club every night.
Champagne
Some of my friends are from here, so again, this isn't a region where I have a lot of experience eating out. The first time I visited Champagne, I went to Epernay and stayed at Maison Belle Epoque, which you can rent for weekends and photo shoots. It's a fairy-tale place to sleep, with beds designed by Hector Guimard, who created the iconic Paris Métro signs. For vegans / vegetarians, I recommend Chez Lou in Reims. My sister likes Michelin-starred Bistrot du Forum. Dufresne Damien boulangerie, A l'ère du temps crêperie, and Chateau d'Etoges also cater to gluten-free diets.
Côte d'Azur-Provence
3.14 Resto Bar-Club, Cannes
Gastronomic restaurant with private beach and gluten-free / vegetarian options, from penne pasta to chocolate moelleux and ice cream tuiles.
Choopy's Cupcakes and Coffee Shop
Cupcake and coffee shop with gluten free cakes, wraps, pancakes, cookies, and options for dairy-intolerant or vegan travelers. There's even a celiac on staff!
Choopy's Cupcakes and Coffee Shop
Cupcake and coffee shop with gluten free cakes, wraps, pancakes, cookies, and options for dairy-intolerant or vegan travelers. There's even a celiac on staff!
La Mandala, Cannes
Beachside restaurant with gluten-free options.
Gluten-free galette shop. The local specialty of Cannes, socca, is inherently gluten-free (chickpea flour), but cross-contamination makes it risky for celiacs.
La Table d'Uzés, Uzés
Classic Michelin-starred restaurant with seasonal menu, which caters to celiac and gluten-free diners.
Les Sardines Aux Yeux Bleus, Aigaliers
Gorgeous hotel between Uzés (where our family lives), Avignon, and Nimes, with gluten-free and vegetarian options.
Risotto & Co., Avignon
Enjoy vegetarian, gluten-free meals in a friendly, zero-waste atmosphere. Their take-home containers are Weck jars.
Le Vieux Castillon, Castillon-du-Gard
My father-in-law recommended this celebrated restaurant, set beautifully in a medieval village. They serve vegetarian and gluten-free meals beside a lovely pool and Relais-Chateaux hotel.
La Cuisine du Dimanche, Avignon
My sister said this was the best meal she ever had. Courses include locally grown veggies, stuffed flowers, and chocolate cups filled with cream and strawberries.
C'est de Famille, Marseille
Dedicated gluten-free restaurant and organic salon de thé. This was one of the first 100% gluten-free restaurants in France when I started coming here in 2011. So cute and bright and clean inside- French country without being cheesy.
Château de Villars, Le Périgord, Aquitaine
Dedicated gluten-free B&B set on nine beautiful acres, offering complete "gluten-free holiday" packages.
Le Calade en Provence, Saint Zacharie
Comprehensive gluten-and-dairy-free French cooking classes, from pizzas and tartes to pâtisserie, breads, and crumbles.
Le Mas d'Emilie, entre Camargue-Luberon
Gluten-free B&B situated in an olive grove.
Le Domaine de Marie, Nice
My sister recommended this restaurant, tucked away on a pedestrian street. They serve several gluten-free plates and desserts.
Orange et Chocolate, Gordes
Cute epicerie with gluten-free products.
Maison Violette, Avignon
Gluten-free boulangerie. For families with gluten-free children, the daycare Family Sphere offers gluten-free meals.
Languedoc-Roussillon
La Maison Papillons, Montclus
This stunning guest home caters to gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan customers, with dedicated facilities for celiac-friendly food amidst olive groves, cherry trees, and fields of lavender. A dream hameau in the South of France.
La Coutinelle, Montpellier
Wonderful 100% dedicated gluten-free restaurant, tea room, and epicerie serving tartes, tiramisu, and beers, mostly dairy-free. They are committed to zero waste, reducing packaging and composting everything.
Les Demoiselles de Montpellier, Montpellier
Adorable vegan and gluten-free tea room with cheesecakes, carrot cake, tartes, pizzas and more.Midi-Pyrénées
As I mentioned in my Albi post, we stay with friends in this region, and they cook better than any restaurant! We ventured to Toulouse for a gluten-free meal- including dessert- at beautiful Le Bibent, and enjoyed wonderful gluten-free macarons, chocolates, ice creams, and pastries at Michel Belin. La Reine Margot is a dedicated gluten-free restaurant and tea room serving cakes, patisserie, and quiches. Glouton Frais delivers gluten-free food in Toulouse, and Rodez has a fusion restaurant offering gluten-free plates, Gingko.
Pays-Basque
I biked through here years ago; I still find this the most difficult region to eat gluten-free. I stayed mostly with families and found cross-contamination too much to handle. Fortunately, markets offer lots of raw options. I can't tolerate corn here, possibly because they rotate the crops. One pizzeria, Pizzerio Serino in Hendaye, serves delicious gluten-free food. I would visit again in a heartbeat. Basque Country, surprisingly, seemed so peaceful and quiet. You could hear people uncorking wine bottles miles away in those hills!
Eastern France
I've only been to Alsace and the Alps in the east of France. Gluten-free options are pretty standard- in my pre-vegan days, I liked raclette the best, especially with potatoes. I'm tired of writing, but Relais de la Poste is an excellent, fancy gluten-and-lactose-free restaurant, and Hôtel Villa Rosa offers vegetarian options. In the Alps, I like l'Impossible in Chamonix, which has organic, vegetarian, and some vegan plates. At Caviar Kaspia Courchevel, you can eat a gluten-free potato with- what else?- caviar, and at Le Mangeoire, drink gluten-free vodka with raclette. Cafe Nikki is the cutest place for a hot chocolate in Courchevel I think :) L'Annexe in La Plagne has one vegetarian dish as well as gluten-free tartiflette, while Le Mouflon serves GF Beauforton, fondue, and raclette with Genepi. Be warned, L'Annexe didn't have toilet paper or water in the bathroom when I was there, though the staff is friendly.
French Islands
Maha Prana, Les Delices d'Alice and l'Albatros at Hotel d'Oleron use local ingredients and offer vegan or vegetarian meals. La Coccinelle on Ile de Ré serves fresh, seasonal, 100% organic gluten-free food. We plan on going to Corsica next to visit friends, so I'll update this section soon.
Ok, those are most of the places I've been in France. Rest'O and Smart Green Corner in Bordeaux are wonderful vegan and gluten free restaurants. If you just want a snack, the tearoom Mona Bordeaux serves gluten free food. The last three pictures are Le Vieux Castillon, Courchevel, and Cannes. I got lazy and stopped posting regionally-appropriate photos.
