Wardrobe In Review

 
 
Updated post here.

Because I shop secondhand, I don't do wardrobe planning in the traditional sense. I don't pin outfit ideas, watch fashion shows, or read trend reports to get a jump on the upcoming season. If you do, and it inspires you and makes you happy, that's great! Me, it just made me feel anxious, like nothing I already had was good enough, like I needed more- when, in reality, I didn't need anything new at all. For me, love at first sight is usually more successful than a cold, analytical approach. Sensible purchases, made to fill some assessed wardrobe hole, rarely ever last more than a season. Periodically, I take only a few minutes to review the condition of my items, determine what needs to be removed, replaced, or repaired, then glance at the inventory of a few favorite secondhand stores, in case something catches my eye. A minimal wardrobe shouldn't mean Spartan self-denial.

Looking over the in-and-out-flow of my closet helps me re-examine shopping habits and avoid future purchasing mistakes. I gave away / sold 18 articles of clothing before moving here, leaving me with literally 15 items (plus nine pairs of shoes, and one bag). My old, hand-me-down boots and sandals gave out almost instantly. Uncomfortable shoes went to Vestiaire Collective tout de suite. I purchased and grew tired of three dresses and four sweaters- a lot of turnover for three years. Evaluating the purchase date, number of times worn, and reasons I like / dislike a particular garment not only determines the true cost of each item, it reveals my personal style. To stay in my closet, clothes should make me happy, boost my self-confidence, and fit the way I want to dress right now, not the way I might want to look in the future. Paris closets don't have room for imaginary, what-if scenarios.

Item	Purchase date	Composition	Reason purchased	Times worn	Thoughts
Mackintosh coat	May 2013 (c. 2011)	Waxed cotton	It started pouring outside, so I ducked into a vintage shop for shelter and fell in love	500+	I love that it's made of proper, heavy waterproof fabric, but has a guilty-pleasure monogram lining. Trying it on, I felt Parisian for the very first time.
Winter coat	Dec 2014 (c. 2008)	Cashgora, virgin wool	I immediately had visions of myself wearing this in a Tolstoy novel	120 already- it was a long winter	Normally, logic would prevent me from buying a snowy-white princess coat for slushy Paris. A lifesaver during the Arctic cold snap- the coat I always dreamed of as a little girl.
Navy dress	Nov 2012 (c. 2008)	Wool, silk	I hoped this would make me look like Carla Bruni-Sarkozy	Every week	I can't explain it, but I feel powerful in this dress, as if the bodice was a conquistador's breastplate. I never get tired of the style, and it fits no matter how my body changes, à la Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants.
Pink dress	Nov 2013	Polyester, viscose, elastane	My husband bought this because it looked the same as my navy dress	Every week	My go-to when I want to look polished. Doesn't wear as well as wool, but the color adds a subtle glow and matches everything. People ask if this dress is new even after seeing it 100 times.
Paul and Joe dress	Nov 2011	Wool, silk	The kimono-style sleeves reminded me of my family	500+, maybe more	I love the smoothness of the wool and how comfortable this is on hot summer days.
Bow-front shirtdress	Aug 2014 (c. 2002- est)	Cotton	When I imagined Paris, I always thought women wore full-skirted shirtdresses like this. Couldn't be more wrong	Over 300 (now I'm just making up numbers)	The swishiness of the skirt is highly gratifying. As with all of the above purchases, it fit like a glove without initial tailoring, and is machine washable.
Red dress	Mar 2015	Crepe, silk	It's red and Dior	30	I'm never satisfied with my wardrobe unless there's something red in it.
Petit Bateau linen t-shirts	Aug / Dec 2014	Linen	They looked so light, carefree and Jane Birkin-y on the hanger	Almost everyday	My body changed and now these hang like maternity tops. Men give up seats on the Métro because they think I'm enceinte. They're so pretty and soft though, perfect tucked into a skirt.
J Brand jeans	Sometime in 2011	Cotton, elastane	I thought these were the same as Emmanuelle Alt's jeans	At least 3x a week	These fit no matter what weight I am and still look new.
Skirt	Sept 2011	Virgin wool, silk	I always wanted a mermaid skirt, and sneaking one into a corporate setting thrilled me	2-3 a week	Indispensable- matched every top I've purchased in four years. In perfect condition. I love the heft and sheen of the wool, and the LV logo pull appeals to my vanity
Sneakers	May 2013	Leather, undisclosed synthetics	My husband bought this because he didn't want me to have foot problems	Every week	Despite Nike's severe ethical and environmental failures, these are like protective turtle shells.
Heels	August 2011	Patent leather	I fell for the Richard Prince monogram	Hundreds of times	Comfortable if I walk less than 10 km in them, these get more compliments and start more conversations than any other shoe.
Sandals	Feb 2011, c. 2010?	Suede, jute	I thought bright green was a neutral and the color would convey that I was a sustainability major	Hundreds, only special occasions now	The kind of shoe that matches nothing, yet goes with everything, so bright and out there I can wear it with all my clothes. The kind of shoe wardrobe analyses might preclude me from buying.
Bow pumps	Oct 2014	Patent leather	At heart I'm actually a 70 year old woman	Almost daily, my cobbler wants to kill me	These didn't need a cobbler until last week- they look new. Best shoe ever. Perfect for lots of walking, cute with jeans or skirts.
Boots	Dec 2014	Leather, rubber	My 15 year old boots finally wore out, and these were warm and kind of cute	Everyday until May	Practicality told me to get Ugg boots. These are shapelier and give a little lift but are comfortable, waterproof, and easy to clean.

I kept pieces I could tell a story about, things that made my heart flutter or embodied some cherished memory. Based on this, I learned 1) I like below-the-knee hemlines 2) Layers don't work for me 3) I should stick to body-skimming silhouettes instead of flowy ones 4) I have a princess complex 5) I gravitate towards statement-making shoes that don't match anything, yet go with everything, bringing variety to my wardrobe. I have trouble selecting sweaters and cardigans- I left the Uniqlo cardigan off the chart because I have nothing to say about it. It's scratchy and I merely tolerate it. This year, I'm determined not to repeat my mistakes. I always buy boring, practical sweaters that don't bring any enjoyment, so a pretty tailored jacket or hand-knit might be the answer.

The chart also shows I'm still seduced by designer labels. Minimalism need not be about prestige- in middle school I bought a Forever 21 camisole for $2 at a thrift store and wore it until I left for Paris. I once bought a Dior shirt from the same place that was a piece of garbage. The idea that a designer label is required for quality is largely unfounded, and most people here wear chain store clothing, though they may invest more in accessories. Still, I don't like Uniqlo, Forever 21 et al. (and a lot of expensive designers, for that matter) because of their practices. While I'm not opposed to buying these brands in a thrift store, they don't work for me. They fit funny, or the fabric is weird. One exception: Secondhand H&M gloves. The leather stretched more than I expected and they look mannish now, but they're still perfectly warm, in good condition.

At any rate, I don't believe fast fashion is ever all anybody can afford, because I couldn't afford H&M or Forever 21 until recently. Going to the mall was a cruel exercise, since I barely had the cash to cough up $59.99 for jeans. My clothing budget is now $50 a month, which I rarely spend. Everything on this chart cost less than mall clothes. While not everyone will find luxury items in thrift stores, I hope this illustrates the fact that there are alternatives to fast fashion. Since there were no thrift stores in my town, before I could drive, I made skirts out of scrap upholstery fabric and wore them with my dad's old shirts, which I refashioned.

Another thing I've learned from my wardrobe evaluation- I like to wear my "nice" clothes everyday, which is something I think Europeans do more than Americans. I don't see the point of letting good stuff take up valuable real estate, only to remain unworn.