Style Evolution

When I was in Cleveland, I found my old school agendas. In them, I catalogued outfits and wrote things like "I heart Hayden Christensen."  I don't pretend to think anyone cares, but based on old photos, notes, and memories, here are my year-round wardrobes for the past decade or so, as accurately as I can remember them. This might be interesting to people who feel minimum closets can't incorporate colors, prints, or patterns; are impractical for four season-climates, students, travelers, corporate settings, apartments without laundries, etc. Bottom line is, wardrobes smaller than mine are possible for everyone. They might not make everyone happy, and that's okay. A minimal closet doesn't necessarily mean an ethical or sustainable one, as my experiments with fast fashion show.

Middle school to college

Dresses 11 1 gingham thrifted H&M 1 leopard print thrifted H&M 2 bright blue thrifted H&M 1 grey H&M 3 plaid- two thrifted: one white, one red and black. One purple that my friend made 2 rainbow striped thrifted dresses- one white, one black 1 black polka dotted dress (tiny beige polka dots), thrifted Tops 24 1 red tie-neck, 3/4 sleeves, Urban Outfitters hand-me-down from my mom 1 purple ruched Velvet brand v-neck, thrifted 1 fluorescent green square neck ruched top 2 long sleeve fluorescent square neck tees, one yellow, one royal blue, thrifted 1 black sweater, H&M Thrifted khaki military shirt 1 mint cardigan 1 silver sweater, thrifted 2 thrifted tank tops- one black Forever 21, one purple 2 thrifted camisoles 1 Free People tie-dye purple and blue blouse, thrifted 1 pink thrifted blouse 1 floral Wet Seal blouse, thrifted 1 leather blazer, H&M 1 Gap purple and red striped t-shirt, thrifted 1 velvet blazer, thrifted 1 powder blue v-neck, thrifted 1 fluorescent orange merino wool sweater, thrifted Thrifted embroidered peasant blouse Neon crop top Bright blue lace bustier Leopard H&M jacket Bottoms 15 3 pairs jeans, Junya Watanabe, J. Lo Glo, and Paper Denim and Cloth, thrifted Three pairs leggings- velvet, zebra, and the

leggings I have now, thrifted 2 skirts I made myself, one toile, one denim Two pairs shorts, thrifted Five skirts- one floral print, one linen, one white, one rainbow wool plaid, one black, thrifted Coats 6 Camel coat, thrifted Blue coat, thrifted Leopard print coat, H&M Lavender trench coat, thrifted Pink satin bomber jacket, thrifted Velvet blazer, thrifted Accessories 36 One fluorescent pink studded H&M pleather bag, thrifted One heart-shaped red H&M purse Six rings from various fast fashion chains Two pairs giant earrings I made myself 1 leopard print H&M hat Doc Martens I spray painted gold Thrifted mittens 2 pairs boots- one black hand-me-down, one leopard print Pink leather Gap sandals, thrifted 3 pairs heart shaped sunglasses- purple, white, and yellow; thrifted Nike sneakers Tan wedge Nine West heels, thrifted Ivory bow-back Steve Madden heels Brown espadrilles Leopard print, black, purple, plaid, navy wool, and red tights 1 beige Levi's bag and 1 black leather Michael Kors bag, a gift from my aunt and uncle 2 fluorescent velvet Gap belts, thrifted One purple velvet belt with vintage elephant buckle, thrifted Pink fluorescent Gap flats Floral flats Saddle shoes Gold sandals Total items: 93

I lumped these years together but didn't own everything at once- when I had the camel coat, I hadn't yet thrifted the blue; I bought ivory heels for my high school commencement; a friend gave me Doc Martens freshman year of college and I sold them a few months later. I threw away a lot of stuff back then. Coats stayed on their hooks year round, and out of season clothes went into a trash bag at the bottom of the closet. When I moved out, my wardrobe was effectively reduced, because a lot on this list actually belonged to my mom or sister.

First two years of college

Dresses 10 Red H&M sweater dress Colorblock satin H&M dress Yellow Calvin Klein cotton dress Red Calvin Klein cotton dress Grey Calvin Klein Dress Red Limited dress Khaki Ann Taylor shirtdress Lavender H&M floral dress White plaid Urban Outfitters dress Bright blue Anthropologie dress Tops 16 Mint cardigan Bright blue satin H&M blouse Pink peplum Forever 21 Black Forever 21 tank top (thrifted) Green J Crew tank top (thrifted) Black H&M sweater Black H&M cardigan Purple ruched Velvet brand v-neck (thrifted) Green fluorescent top Red H&M t-shirt Floral Wet Seal thrifted blouse Green J Crew cashmere cardigan (thrifted) Green linen t-shirt (thrifted) Dior shirt (thrifted)

Powder blue top from TJ Maxx Leather H&M blazer Bottoms 9 Two pairs jeans, Junya Watanabe and Paper 4 skirts- black, floral, linen, white 2 pairs leggings- black and velvet Black H&M skirt suit Coats 2 Blue thrifted coat Thrifted lavender trench coat Accessories 12 Leopard print, black, and beige knit tights (people thought the lacy knit was a skin disease) Thrifted mittens Nike sneakers Black patent pumps from Target Green suede Steve Madden heels Black boots Leopard boots Urban Outfitters gladiator sandals Brown espadrilles Thrifted black studded leather bag Three rings and a bangle bracelet Total items: 53

I lived in a house without laundry, so having less pieces year-round minimized the number of trips needed to clean everything. For my first job, I wanted to look more professional; a mix of Crayola brights and fast fashion was my idea of corporate attire. Though a full-time student, I felt I could finally afford to shop at the mall, and bought a lot of disposable clothing, which didn't satisfy like thrift store finds. I started consigning unwanted clothes then.

Kate Middleton phase and 1st trip to Paris

Dresses 8 Red H&M sweater dress Grey wool Valentino dress Red Limited dress Khaki Ann Taylor shirtdress My grey wedding dress Paul and Joe dress, bought in Paris Powder blue Cavalli dress, bought in Paris Blue floral Express dress Tops 11 Ivory lace Ann Taylor Red H&M t-shirt Gap peach zip front chiffon-paneled t-shirt Two green J Crew tank tops Two Forever 21 tank tops, one navy, one black Black H&M sweater Black H&M cardigan Green linen t-shirt Apple green cashmere cardigan Bottoms 4 Two pairs shorts

The black skirt I have now One striped Anthropologie brand skirt (I didn't live with my sister anymore; she kept the Junya Watanabe jeans during this period) Coats 2 Black wool J Crew coat Zara trench coat bought in Paris Accessories 10 Silk scarf I took from my mom Brown espadrilles Dior sunglasses bought in Paris Green Steve Madden suede heels Tan Jessica Simpson espadrille-sandal-heels that broke on the street Tan Skechers sneakers Black hand-me-down boots Black Louboutin patent pumps A purse I took from my mom Black knit tights Total items: 35

All items secondhand unless otherwise noted. I worked at a summer camp for kids with serious illnesses and also in a corporate setting, so my year-round wardrobe reflected the dichotomy. I didn't have laundry in my building and couldn't afford dry-cleaning, forcing me to pare down to minimize costs. I started traveling, which crushed acquisitive tendencies like a box of macarons in a carry-on. Traveling meant a tighter budget, and I returned to shopping secondhand almost exclusively.

Post-undergrad and subsequent trips to Paris

Dresses 11 Grey wool Valentino dress and Alexander Mcqueen dress My grey wedding dress Black Paul and Joe dress, bought in Paris, and the same dress in pink Orange Paul and Joe Ryana dress Black Dior dress Black Chanel dress Red sleeveless H&M dress Hot pink vintage YSL beaded dress Blue Dior dress Tops 16 Black and navy Forever 21 tank tops Black H&M sweater Black H&M cardigan Black silk Alexander Wang blouse Black Equipment lace button-down Nude Equipment lace button-down Black sheer Equipment silk top Louis Vuitton silk shell Express silk shell White Valentino ruffle button-down Grey wool funnel-neck J. Crew top Short-sleeved white Ann Taylor blouse Green J Crew linen t-shirt  Beige Vince leather jacket Red silk Prada Red Etoile Isabel Marant sweater

Bottoms 5 The black skirt I have now Junya Watanabe jeans One red H&M skirt (actually my sister's) The same leggings I have now Current Elliott floral print stiletto jeans Black Alaia skater skirt (purchased at the Alaia shop) Coats 2 Green Banana Republic wool coat Floral brocade Versace coat Accessories 13 Beige Miu Miu boots and black studded heels Black heart-shaped Forever 21 purse Black Louboutin patent pumps Purple Alaia cage heels and Alaia flats Black knit tights Dior and Alexander Wang sunglasses Gold Newbark flats Leopard print Louboutins Green suede YSL here and grey-pink LV heels Embroidered silk scarf Total items: 48 (all secondhand unless noted)

Here's where I started falling for designer items. As the secondhand market became more savvy and expensive, so did my wardrobe. I worked full-time in a corporate setting with a strict dress code. I lived in a studio without laundry, and didn't have a closet or dresser, so I put everything on a small garment rack and steamed clothes during showers.

Pre-Paris move until 1st year in France

Dresses 8 My grey wedding dress Black Paul and Joe dress, bought in Paris, and the same dress in pink Black Dior dress Red wool Valentino dress Bright purple silk-cotton Alberta Ferretti dress White and blue toile print Bernie Dexter dress from my sister Blue Dior dress Tops 12 Black H&M sweater and red Etoile Isabel Marant sweater Navy Uniqlo blazer Navy and black Forever 21 tank tops Green linen t-shirt Black lace button-down Nude lace button-down White Valentino button-down Grey wool J Crew top Black silk Alexander Wang blouse Short-sleeved white ruffle button-down Blue gingham top (worn with floral jeans) Bottoms 6 The black skirt I have now J Brand jeans One pair beige M Missoni pants Grey Isabel Marant pants

Floral print Current Elliott jeans Black Alexander Wang pants Leggings Coats 2 Grey wool hooded J. Crew coat Trench coat I have now Accessories 15 Black boots (hand-me-downs from middle school) Miu Miu black studded heels Longchamp bag Black Louboutin patent pumps Purple Alaia cage heels (in black, here) Black knit tights Dior sunglasses bought in Paris Black Alexander Wang for Linda Farrow sunglasses (in white, here) Black Alaia flats Black and white Alaia flats Green Nike sneakers, a gift from my husband Ancient Greek Sandals Grey and pink Louis Vuitton heels Green suede YSL heels (in orange, here) Watch Silk scarf Wedding ring Total items: 46 (all secondhand unless noted)

I ruthlessly halved this list before moving, then realized what I kept was impractical for car-less city life. The past few years were trial and error as I adapted my style to a new environment. I don't like wearing all the bright stuff I used to in Paris. Certain shades don't look nice in the weather or against the buildings, I think. When I dressed that way, people immediately knew I wasn't from here and would bother me on the Métro or street. Now my wardrobe is at the point where I still have variety and can add a few pieces without being overwhelmed. I definitely wouldn't say I was fashionable, but I feel good in and truly love everything I wear, which is more important. Photos 11 and 12, Emanuela Cervo. Photo 14, Emanuele D'Angelo.