Is Secondhand Shopping Safe?

Sometimes friends ask to go shopping where I found a particular designer item, but when they realize it's secondhand, they freak out. The overriding sentiment is, "Other people had these clothes. Dirty people. I don't want something that was worn before." Sometimes they're totally ok with furniture found off the street, but can't fathom wearing thrift store shoes, or worse, swimsuits and underwear. Lately I've gotten a lot of questions about how to clean vintage and secondhand items, if they're hygienic, and so on. I get it. We wear these things close to our skin, use other secondhand purchases to store and eat food, around our children, our pets, etc. I let my cats go on counters and in cabinets so maybe you shouldn't take hygiene advice from me, but I'm also Korean, which I feel is qualification enough to advise would-be secondhand shoppers on matters of cleanliness.

It's important to realize new items, especially new articles of clothing, aren't immune from potential problems. New clothing is often coated in formaldehyde, benzothiazoles, perfluorinated chemicals, and nonylphenol ethoxylates to prevent wrinkling or molding during shipping. VOC's, dioxin, flame retardants, and PPD may persist on textiles- even organic fabrics- after several washes, especially in the case of black clothing. Each wash releases residual toxins. Let's not even get into the resources wasted and the hazardous cocktail of chemicals dispersed into waterways during clothing production. We don't know for certain if all these toxic chemicals seep into skin or what levels persist in the body. It stands to reason, though, that exposure to these chemicals could increase the risk of allergic or potentially more serious reactions, including suspected carcinogenic effects and aquatic toxicity. Whatever the case, lice and scabies can be transmitted from trying on clothes at Zara just as easily as at Buffalo Exchange, only pre-washed and pre-owned clothing is likely to contain lower toxin levels than their embalmed counterparts.

There are some items I wouldn't buy used: mattresses, medical supplies, things that can never be totally sterilized (not that I would ever buy this, but a breast pump comes to mind), metal toys or crayons of a certain age (can contain lead). I might buy a bicycle helmet if it passed inspection. I used to think it was common sense never to buy cosmetics products secondhand, but it's such a big business in Paris. When buying jars secondhand, inspect for cracks or chips first and don't use old lids, since the seals might be busted or lead-containing. Sterilize like any other jar- I found a Le Parfait jar in the street and just boiled it. Use common sense with metal items, including utensils or food storage containers. Usually they're ok from the midcentury onward (note: see comment below for concerns regarding lead exposure. To me, lead contamination caused by new product manufacturing poses a greater public health threat- however, everyone must do their own research, consider their own values, and make their own decision).

Clean furniture with vinegar or oil soap (if wooden) and sand if necessary. Recover upholstered furniture or scrub with gentle soap and brush before sprinkling with baking soda, vacuuming, and steaming. Clothing, linens, cushions, and pillows are typically fine washed normally with a capful of vinegar- if you're really worried, dry in the sun or steam to sterilize (btw has anyone used this chestnut laundry detergent recipe on Instagram? I'm curious. I know where to get a lot of horse chestnuts). Trust your judgment and don't buy anything that looks unsafe, smells, or is disgusting.

Clean shoes with vinegar and a soap with natural antibacterial properties, such as Aleppo or coconut oil, or throw in the laundry machine with towels and dry in the sun. I wouldn't buy shoes from Kilo Shop though, or any frip for that matter. So far I've only purchased secondhand shoes pretty much new in box. As for leather, I hear people wash leather shorts and jackets in the machine with a little vinegar and gentle soap. It scares me to think about it and I have no leather clothing, so I can't speak to the method's effectiveness.

The moral of the story is this: secondhand is like the Beast and new stuff is Gaston. Get past the rough reputation and at times unpleasant exterior of the resale market, and you'll be happy knowing you kept something out of landfill, getting the most of the embedded energy without contributing to the ethical nightmare that is the new clothing industry (not that secondhand doesn't have its problems too). I love Gaston and thought marrying the Beast was like marrying a bowl of oatmeal or a plant with blond hair or something, but Gaston's charms are limited, which (I know I'm generalizing) sort of describes a lot of new product manufacturers at the moment.